Monday, August 30, 2010

Grand Tetons, August 8, 11-15

First day, Mt. Moran
from Oxbow Bend
Oxbow Bend, Snake River
Moose at Jackson Lodge
East entrance
View from our campsite
Bike ride on the 8-mile greenway
A happy cycling family
On the Snake, Mt. Moran in back
A very happy Patti on the Snake
White pelicans at Oxbow Bend
Mt. Moran with a magma stripe
(diabase dike)
The main Tetons from
the Cascade Canyon trail
Jenny Lake from Inspriation Point
Mt. Owen
View of the Forks of Cascade Canyon
Hidden Falls above Jenny Lake
GRANT: The day before we headed into Yellowstone, we explored Grand Teton NP a little.  Oxbow Bend was beautiful, and we vowed to kayak it later, which we did.  We also saw a bull moose hanging out at a pond near Jackson Lodge.  It can be very easy or very hard to spot wildlife in the parks.  Easy when there are swarms of cars stopped at the side of the road, people with their cameras at the ready.  That's how we spotted the moose.

Our trip overall was very gratifying when it came to wildlife viewing.  We saw many moose, black bear, grizzly bear, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, bison, elk, mule deer, white tail deer.  All the "charismatic mega fauna", as the rangers call them. We also saw a number of small but nonetheless interesting critters: hoary marmots, golden mantled squirrels (look like chipmunks, taste like chicken ... kidding), pikas (rabbit-like animals with no tails and small ears), bald eagles, geese, mergansers and other ducks, osprey, cut-throat trout (never caught any), and all kinds of nasty mosquitos and biting flies.  We checked everything off our list but wolves and cougars, which isn't surprising.  Actually, we almost missed the pronghorn antelope.  We even made a special trip on the southeast of Teton one evening looking for them with no luck.  It's when we left the park on our way to Boise that we spotted one by itself in the middle of a field by the freeway!  In any case, Gabe was so intrigued by the animals that he got a couple of books on drawing them and drew a great many of them.

Lots of "stealth learning" went on this summer for Gabe (and for Patti and me), what with all the geology, geography and wildlife around.  Gabe also did a lot of writing.  Speaking of geology, Wikipedia has a good article on the Tetons: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geology_of_the_Grand_Teton_area.  It describes the area as having some of the oldest rock and newest mountains on the continent.  Truly amazing.  What impressed me is that I never got tired of looking at them.  Every place and time of day and weather condition would yield a very different view of them, and they were always striking and dramatic.  Jackson Hole is an enchanting place, to be sure.

After Yellowstone, Gabe and I found an awesome campsite at Signal Mountain in the park, right next to Jackson Lake.  Great views of the mountain range, lake access, privacy, shelter from the winds, and big huckleberry patches, which Gabe and I helped ourselves to.  The only downside was that the road construction crews hit the Signal Mountain area just as we got there and stayed for a few days.  They have traffic control wired, so it wasn't too bad.  And just like other times we had to slow down or stop on the roads in the parks, we never minded the views!

We took a lovely bike ride along the 8-mile path (and back) that runs from the very popular Jenny Lake between the face of the Tetons and the highway on the west side.  The path was built because a young girl died on her bike on the road some years ago.  We stopped at Moose Junction at the south side to check out the new visitor center, which is impressive, and to have some lunch.  A windy, threatening day turned beautiful, which was often the case (or vice versa) in the area, and we had a great time.

We spent one day floating the Snake River from Jackson Dam to Oxbow Bend, which was very calm, albeit with a swift current at first, and very pretty.  Lots of birding there.  Patti told Gabe how the Snake was her first river experience, which changed her life and ultimately led her to me.  In a way, that river is part of the arc that led to his existence.  Turns out we followed and crossed it many times on our way back to Oregon.

Our last hurrah in the park was a hike up Cascade Canyon to its forks, with close-up views of some of the major peaks like Grand Teton, Teewinot and Mt. Owens.  We took a boat across Jenny Lake, walked up to Inspiration Point with a view of the lake, then a gentle walk up the canyon to the forks.  We met a fun family from the bay area (originally from central Texas), and Gabe and the boy Sam became fast friends.

I have to say that we met many fellow travelers along the way who were all delightful.  From Peter with the 49 foot mobile home to the two gals who were traveling from Brooklyn to visit their brother on furlough from Iraq, many people with lots of interesting stories and open hearts.  Like our friends at home and elsewhere, they enriched so much of our journey.


At one time about 3/4 of the way through the trip while we were camping, Gabe said he noticed we were all getting grouchy with each other, likely because of the close proximity of the tent trailer and the constant exposure to one another.  After that realization, we all mellowed out and stayed mindful and grateful of the fact that we were traveling through beauty.  Gabe gained a lot of perspective during the trip.  His world view was broadened and deepened, which we were hoping for, and he has returned a noticeably more mature fellow in the process.


Our trip back home was long but very fun.  We drove 8 hours to Boise, then another 8 hours the next day to Portland.  We had become such seasoned travelers that the days went by very pleasantly.  We reversed our original path from Portland, visiting friends there and in Corvallis, Pistol River and Brookings.  A wonderful way to ease our way back home.

After we came home, we took a quick trip up to Howard Prairie while the carpets were cleaned, then came home and re-arranged the furniture and got rid of a lot of stuff.  I reckon living simply and traveling in nature for a couple of months will do that for you.

Yellowstone, August 9-10

Young grizzly in Yellowstone
Old Faithful, first time
Boiling pool, river, minerals
Old Faithful, second time
Castle Geyser
The south entrance.
Patti loves these signs.
Dragon's Mouth mud pot
Rutting bison
Why did the bison cross the road?
Females or water!
Lower Yellowstone Falls
from Artist's Point
The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
A happy family

After unexpectedly spending a month in Glacier NP, we visited our good friends the Burringtons in Bozeman, MT for several days.  What a great, relaxing time.  Then off to Yellowstone.  We drove around the park and camped outside the east side of Grand Teton NP, since Yellowstone is close, and we figured we'd spend more time there.  Plus we kept hearing how crazy crowded Yellowstone was.  In retrospect, it would probably would have been faster to go through Yellowstone to get to the Tetons, despite traffic, construction delays and wildlife crossings.  Still, we got to see the back of the Tetons, which was cool.

Our first day in Yellowstone, we headed up the west side to Old Faithful, of course!  Took 1.5 hours to get up there, but the drive was beautiful.  There was a young but huge grizzly just 20 feet from us on the side of the road, knocking over yarrow roots.  We heard from a ranger later that grizz tend to go after the same food source for a while, which explains why they become a danger when they realize human camps are a source of food.  As a matter of fact, a man was dragged out of his tent and killed shortly before we arrived in the park.  His camp was clean, but somebody else had left food out.

We got to see Old Faithful go off 3 times that day, about every 1 hr 20 min.  We wandered around the geyser basin, which was stunning and very unusual.  More geysers than anywhere else on the planet.  Funny thing is, we always hiked prepared with rain gear, extra food and water.  This time, we just took windbreakers because there were thousands of people around, loads of buildings, and the "trail" was a boardwalk.  It was like Disneyland!  Wouldn't you know it, when we were about a mile out, one of those famous Big Sky storms swooped in and pounded us with cold, sideways rain.  We would linger by smelly glaciers and boiling pools to catch some warmth!  We made it back to the lodge just in time for it to clear (and to see Old Faithful for a third time that day).  We headed back to camp tired, wet but happy.

Next day in Yellowstone we headed up the east side and got stuck in a traffic jam of large numbers of bison crossing the road.  Very cool.  The males were rutting, grunting and herding their harums around, keeping the females close.  There were geysers all over the place, and the Yellowstone River was gorgeous, roaming placidly through the meadows of the caldera.  We also headed to a group of mud pots, all colors, one of which looked like a dragon hiding out in a cave.  The we headed to Yellowstone Falls, one of the parks many landmarks.  There were over 300 steps down to the viewpoint, but it was worth it, and the "grand canyon" the river carved was stunning.  After 2 days of seeing the canonical sights in Yellowstone, we decided to start our adventure in the Tetons.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Glacier NP (part 3, 7/20-7/31) - St. Mary/Many Glacier

Three phases of a flower



The entrance to the St. Mary Valley
with the ridge we saw from camp
"A symphony of color" near Beaver Pond


Pinks and blues
Purple, yellow, white
A whole splash of color

More fun with the macro lens
St. Mary Falls
Virginia Falls
Wild Goose Island, St. Mary Lake
Gabe riding tall to Cracker Lake
Glacial Cracker Lake
A mountain goat with problems
Grant's overlook of Grinnell Glacier
Grant's overlook of Many Glacier Valley
Gabe driving a surrey in Waterton, Alberta
Morning fog in Many Glacier
before boat rides across 2 lakes
The hike up to Grinnell Glacier
Bighorn sheep at our lunch spot
Grinnell Glacier & Mt. Reynolds
Looking up at Grant's overlook
2.5 billion year old stromatolites
(like cabbages made of cyanobacteria)
Salamander & Grinnell Glacier
Patti after Thunderbird Falls
(coming back from the glaciers)
Hiking the Highline Trail
from Logan Pass
View of the west side from Highline
Odd clouds from camp
(waiting for the mothership)
GRANT:  A picture is worth a thousand words, so this time the blog starts with photos.  We spent over a week in St. Mary on the east side of Glacier National Park.  From there we accessed the St. Mary Valley in the park, including its beautiful lake and falls, as well as the other side of the Going-to-the-Sun Road up to Logan Pass.  Our first hike in the area was an unassuming little jaunt to a beaver pond but had the most amazing assortment of wildflowers we've ever seen, among aspens and burnt trees.  The native people would come here in the summer because the higher elevations provided lots of harvests, as well as awe inspiring scenery.  Toward the end of our stay we went to Logan Pass and walked part of the famous Highline Trail, with panoramic views of the west side of the park.

From St. Mary we also accessed the Many Glacier Valley, which is really popular, and included two horseback rides for Patti and Gabe to Cracker and Poia Lakes, a hike to Grinnell Lake and a stunning, all-day, ranger-led hike to Grinnell Glacier near the Continental Divide.  Gabe absolutely loved riding horses, and they had both guides to themselves.  The hike to the glaciers included two boat rides, a long, steady but beautiful 3.8 mile hike, including a free shower in Thunderbird Falls, and an up-close look at the glaciers themselves.

The day that Patti and Gabe rode, I took the free shuttle to the west side of the park, climbed 2200 ft. to Granite Park Chalet then another 1600 ft. (in .8 miles) to a breathtaking overlook of the Grinnell and Salamander Glaciers, the whole Many Glacier Valley on the east side out to the planes, and the west side, including Lake MacDonald, the largest lake in the park.  I was standing on the knife edge of the arete, straddling the Continental Divide on a saddle point 7600 ft. up.  Wow!  Better get here quick, because the remaining 25 glaciers are projected to be gone by 2020!

We also spent a day in Waterton, Alberta, which is part of the Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park.  Didn't do any hiking but had a great time tooling around the cute little town and practicing our Canadian, eh?

Next we headed to Grand Teton and Yellowstone, but that's another story ...